What Causes Nitrocellulose Lacquer to Crack When You Spray It Again on the Second Day?
Nitrocellulose lacquer frequently asked questions
Notation Lacquer should just be used in a well ventilated area. You should wear a properly fitted vapour respirator during the awarding and drying of nitrocellulose lacquer. Motorcar Mart sell an ideal respirator for under £20 including organic solvent cartridges.
All my lacquer is supplied in 400ml aerosols, which mostly have adjustable elliptical nozzles allowing a vertical or horizontal fan. An alternative round nozzle which is improve for sunbursts is available on request.
It is illegal in the Great britain for anyone under the historic period of 16 to attempt to purchase aerosol paints. By ordering lacquer aerosols, you lot confirm that you are over 16 years of age.
I'm sorry only I tin not ship lacquer outside the United kingdom at this time.
If you are looking for general information on how to spray a guitar, at that place is a series of posts in the blog on guitar finishing. More to follow soon!
Before you buy
- Why do the colour swatches testify two different colours?
- Tin can you send lacquer to me in (France, Sweden, United states etc.)?
- Can I just use Halfords car paint?
- Is this stuff I have compatible with your lacquer?
- How many tins practise I demand?
- How do I get a blond or butterscotch finish?
- How do I get a 3-colour sunburst finish?
- Practice you stock Candy Apple Cherry-red lacquer?
- What should I use to give my guitar neck a vintage colour?
Preparation
- How do I strip the existing cease?
- What about grain filler and sanding sealer?
- What should I utilize to give my guitar neck a vintage color?
Recipes for authentic-looking finishes
- How exercise I get a butterscotch finish?
- How do I get a iii-colour sunburst finish?
- Do you stock Candy Apple tree Crimson lacquer?
Spraying technique
- How do I refit the nozzle to the can?
- How many coats should I apply?
- Why am I getting drips of lacquer on my guitar?
- Should I invert the can to clean the nozzle?
- Any special tips for metallics?
- Any special tips for satin and matt finishes?
- How long do I leave the guitar before buffing?
- Why do this buffing thing?
- Why has my lacquer gone cloudy?
- Why does my cease expect rough and powdery?
- Should I warm the droplets cans is a water bath?
Other stuff
- How tin I age (relic) the lacquer?
- Do I need to mask the frets on a maple neck before spraying?
- Why is commitment and so expensive?
Q. Why practice the colour swatches bear witness two different colours?
A.
Where the lacquer color shows a darker shade on the right hand side, it represents the colour of the lacquer when sprayed over with my Light Tint Gloss clearcoat.
The left mitt side shows a close representation of the actual colour.
Q. Can y'all send lacquer to me in (France, Sweden, U.s.a. etc.)?
A.
Since the end of the Brexit transition stage, I'1000 unfortunately unable to export lacquer to any country.
If y'all are in Usa you tin can buy similar lacquer from ReRanch
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Q. What about grain filler and sanding sealer?
A.
It'southward essential for a professional looking cease to ready your woods so that y'all have a perfect surface for the lacquer.
Sand to 320 grit to remove whatsoever pits or scratches.
Open pored forest such as ash and mahogany volition require grain-filling. Y'all don't need to grain-fill up maple and can generally go away without information technology on alder. I like the Rustins grain filler bachelor from my shop but some people now are starting to use epoxies. I've recently tried Stewart Macdonald's water based grain filler simply with mixed results in line with the reviews on the site.
Meet my step-by-step grain-filling post in the blog.
The side by side footstep after grain filling is sealing, which is designed to requite a smooth surface for the lacquer. You can merely employ lacquer if you wish but as it doesn't fill
imperfections very well it can take a lot to become a smooth finish.
You lot can use a nitrocellulose-based sanding sealer under my lacquer and I sell a high build sanding sealer in aerosol grade. If you are spraying a solid colour then my white primer volition do the chore well, plus it gives an fifty-fifty base of operations for lighter colours, increasing their brightness.
Whether using sanding sealer or primer, always sand flat and if imperfections remain, spray another few coats, allow to dry and sand again.
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Q. Is this stuff I have compatible with your lacquer?
A.
I haven't a great deal of feel mixing finishes and only utilize nitrocellulose and then yous would need to test any combination yourself before use.
More often than not anything that is cellulose or shellac based should exist okay simply over again, y'all need to test it to exist sure.
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Q. Can I merely use Halfords car paint?
A.
Although machine sprays come in a wide variety of colours, many people take found that it doesn't harden very well on woods and can stay soft for many months.
If you lot want a special colour making up, please inquire as I can have most colours put into aerosol cans. Information technology takes a couple weeks to get manufactured and is subject to a minimum order of ane litre of lacquer (effectually £50) plus £16 per aerosol.
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Q. How practice I refit the nozzle to the tin can?
A.
If your lacquer arrives with the nozzle detached, the best way to refit it is with a twisting activity. Trying to press it in will probably consequence in y'all getting lacquerall over your fingers.
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Q. How many coats should I utilize?
A.
It's difficult to talk about coats as information technology depends how thick you use information technology. More often than not I'd wait 3 coats each of about 3 passes, and depending on ambience temperature, with between 5 minutes and 1/ii hour between coats. The transparent colours get darker the more coats you spray so you lot'll need to spray plenty to go your desired shade.
You but need to sand between coats if yous need to remove an imperfection such as grit or a run. Yous should spray thinly enough and then that runs don't happen of form.
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A.
Yes! The technique that I use when I spray metallics is to dust the final glaze of colour on from a distance, assuasive the flakes to stand at all angles instead of flat on the trunk. So I grit on the first few articulate coats (so equally not to disturb the metal) before building up thickness. This technique give the strongest contrast.
Run into an example.
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Q. Any special tips for satin and matt finishes?
A.
What I do is to spray plenty of coats of Clear Satin lacquer (or Clear Matt) leave to harden overnight and flat sand with 800 grit. As ever when apartment sanding, have care on the corners equally it is all to piece of cake to sand through.
And then I spray a terminal coat of Clear Satin (or matt) lacquer all over and leave it. No buffing! That way y'all'll become a prissy even sheen all over.
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Q. How many tins practise I need?
A.
Every bit a dominion of thumb, refinishing a guitar trunk will have a can each of primer, colour and clear. Information technology depends however on how well y'all ready the woods, how economical you are and how much paint actually ends upward on the guitar and this does depend on your skill level. Inexperienced refinishers may need more!
Preparation is also a key cistron. Sand out those scratches beginning. Trying to fill up them with lacquer can be a long and expensive process!
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Q. How long do I leave the guitar before buffing?
A.
The longer the better! I'd say a minimum of a calendar week. I tend to get out at least three weeks.
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Q. Why do this buffing thing?
A.
It'south impossible to get a flat finish with lacquer and then it is always flat sanded and buffed to a loftier gloss. See the Reranch site for details.
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Q. Why am I getting drips of lacquer on my guitar?
A.
If yous press too hard on the nozzle, you tin can sometimes get a buildup of lacquer on the rim of the can (where information technology's crimped closed) and this can sometimes drop off or be blown onto your work. Information technology'due south a practiced idea to wipe the rim every few passes.
Y'all can mimimise the chances of this by hanging the body rather than laying information technology flat for spraying.
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Q. Should I invert the can to clean the nozzle?
A.
Some people advise that subsequently use you capsize the can and spray to clean the nozzle.I DO Not recommend you do this.
The nozzles do not tend to clog and cleaning them this way is a sure fashion to waste propellant, depressurise the can and end upwardly with half a tin of lacquer that won't spray, or worse splutter lacquer onto your guitar due to low can force per unit area.
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Q. How do I get a blond or butterscotch finish?
A.
If the body is ash (and information technology really should be as the wait depends on ash's stiff grain pattern) then y'all'll need to grain fill first. I similar and use Rustins grain filler.
There are instructions for finishing blond at lesser of this page on the Vintage Guitar site.
Following this, to get an authentic-looking blonde finish with my aerosols:
- Sand the wood to 320 grit to remove any scratches.
- grain fill up thoroughly and sand smooth to 320 grit.
- Spray several thin coats of sanding sealer to lock information technology all in and flatten. The aim is to get a very smooth surface for the lacquer. Echo this pace if necessary until y'all have a very smooth guitar body. There is sanding sealer demo here.
- Spray White Blonde gloss evenly and so equally to opaque the grain but non besides much. Spray more white on the edges if you similar equally they were generally opaqued to hibernate whatever joins in the body.
- If you lot want a "butterscotch blonde" spray (lightly) tinted gloss to requite an amber shade to your sense of taste. For a creamy colour use Light Tint
lacquer, for a full-on butterscotch employ Tinted Gloss or for a more yellow colour, Clear Bister. - Follow with more coats of clear gloss, and leave for ii-iii weeks to harden
- Finally apartment sand and vitrify.
Don't sand the blonde before the articulate coat as it'due south likely you'll rub through and expose wood.
To sand at the end you lot should utilise progressively effectively "wet and dry" papers (from B&Q etc.) used with water that has a little washing-upward-liquid added. Don't get your guitar too wet as if water gets in screw holes it will not bad the wood and crack your stop.
Finish with P1200 paper and so use T-Cut to bring up the gloss.
The reason for the sanding and buffing is that it'due south impossible to get a completely smooth finish when spraying.
If y'all wish you can substitute my Butterscotch lacquer for the White Blond and omit the tinting steps unless you lot want to further darken the colour.
More skilful stuff on finishing on the Reranch site.
These guitars were finished using my lacquer aerosols.
Yous'll need:
- one can Rustins Grain Filler (natural)
- one can Sanding Sealer
- one tin can White Blonde
- 1 tin (Lightly) Tinted Gloss
- 1 or 2 cans Clear Gloss
You lot'll also demand grain filler (Craft Supplies) and some abrasives (B&Q, Homebase, Halfords) and some T-Cutting (B&Q, Homebase, Halfords).
Yous might exist surprised how easy it is to get good results. Equally you probably know, the key success factors are preparation and patience. Take your time and you'll have a far better chance of getting it right. E'er practice your spraying technique on scrap wood. It's easier than stripping and repainting your guitar trunk! There's a mail service showing the process of spraying a butterscotch body here.
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Q. How practise I get a 3-colour sunburst finish?
A.
Here's how to do it (briefly)
- Seal the body with sanding sealer.
- Spray front, back and sides in amber.
- Spray red transition band including the sides.
- Spray Tobacco Brown band on edges. Keep prissy and tight in with this so the band isn't too wide. Y'all'll need several coats to build up opacity, exist careful to permit each ane dry out before the next to avoid runs – don't blitz this step!
- Follow with enough of coats of clear gloss.
- After a few weeks hardening, flat, buff and polish.
You'll demand:
- ane tin can Sanding Sealer
- one can Clear Amber
- i tin can Clear Reddish
- i can Tobacco Dark-brown
- 1 or two cans Articulate Gloss
Run across Reranch 101
It's a expert idea to do first on some scrap wood. Patience is essential. If you lot blitz things, you'll cease up with a less than perfect chore.
I utilise sunbursts freehand only you can apply a masking template held above the body so as not to get a difficult edge.
My aersols are normally supplied with an elliptical nozzle, which is great for big areas but a round spray design is meliorate for sunbursts. Please allow me know if yous'd prefer a round nozzle when you buy.
See my sunbursting demo.
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Q. Do you stock Processed Apple tree Ruby lacquer?
A.
Candy Apple tree Cherry-red (Automobile) is non one colour but a sequence of layers. See how Fender did information technology here: http://www.guitarhq.com/fenderc.html.
My colours piece of work well to achieve a realistic Candy Apple Red.
The "recipe" is:
- White primer
- Inca Silverish (or gold) metallic
- Clear Red
- Clear Gloss
Fender used a argent basecoat up to 1965 and a aureate basecoat thereafter.
Dust the final coat of silver or gilt on from a distance, allowing the flakes to stand at all angles instead of flat on the trunk. Then dust on the first few coats of clear red (so as not to disturb the metallic) before building upwardly thickness and color.
I've demo'd the whole process here: Creating a Candy Apple tree Cherry-red finish
You need the Articulate Gloss at the terminate for when you flat sand and buff you don't want to rub through your red. See http://www.reranch.com/101a.htm#concluding%20polishing.
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Q. How practise I strip the existing finish?
A.
To strip a guitar you have 3 options:
- Chemicals. In the by I have had success with Nitromors but recently learned that due to new regulations controlling the use of methylene chloride, its formulation has changed and it now won't have any effect on the majority of guitar finishes. It volition strip nitrocellulose finishes, as will cellulose thinners, acetone or ethyl acetate (ethyl ethanoate).
- Heat. Using a heat gun tin piece of work well for constructed finishes but exist conscientious not to scorch the forest. Also much oestrus can elevator veneers besides so exercise caution.
- Abrasive. Sanding works when all else fails but it is a time-consuming chore. A mouse type sander is good for curved surfaces such as a guitar summit. Start with a fibroid grade to remove most of the stop and so switch to finer at the stop. Be careful not to sand through any veneers.
Y'all must get a smoothen, faultless surface before doing anything else.
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Q. How can I age (relic) the lacquer?
A.
I'thou no expert in conditions checking but take had expert results by putting Tele bodies into the freezer overnight. A couple of cycles of freeze/thaw works well. Add a few dings first and these act a centres for the checking. Here'south a Telecaster that I finished and then distressed.
The ReRanch site has some information on aging finishes and hardware , and see the excellent article in Guitar and Bass Magazine "How To Relic A Guitar Body With A Nitro Stop " which uses my lacquer.
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Q. What should I use to give my guitar neck a vintage colour?
A.
You can spray my Tinted lacquer over blank woods or existing poly finishes. If the latter, scuff sand very lightly showtime to provide a key.
If you want to utilize a tinted lacquer you need to understand that the colour depth increases with film thickness – the more you spray, the darker it gets. If you want to tint the neck I'd recommend sealing outset with articulate lacquer, spraying the tinted to get the colour yous want (matching the back and headstock). And then more clear to build up final end thickness. That fashion when you lot buff you won't be rubbing through the colour, making it paler in patches.
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Q. Practice I demand to mask the frets on a maple neck before spraying?
A.
At that place is no need to mask and yous should spray correct over the frets.
Y'all can remove the lacquer using a scraper made from a small nail as pictured. The notch is filed in the smash head using a rat-tail file. Wear eye protection though as bits fly everywhere!
Yous will as well observe that the lacquer will easily chip off when you dress the frets.
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Q. Why has my lacquer gone cloudy?
A.
The milkiness (chosen bloom or chroma) is downward to spraying in boiling weather and information technology'south acquired by moisture getting trapped in the lacquer. You tin can mimimise this past spraying thinner coats so that the moisture can escape before the lacquer dries. Oftentimes this milkiness volition go away as the piece warms upward or it can exist removed by spraying more than lacquer in less humid conditions.
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Q. Why does my end look crude and powdery?
A.
It's probably a combination of spraying as well far away and the weather existence too warm. Warming the tin can also cause this so don't.
What is happening is that the solvents in the lacquer are drying before it hits the trunk so that it can't flow to create a smooth surface.
Spray closer to your guitar then that the lacquer goes on wet, but non so moisture that you get runs.
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Q. Should I warm the droplets cans is a water bath?
A.
Generally, no. The propellant in the aerosols is butane which boils at just nether 0°C and so unless you are spraying in sub-zilch conditions (which I don't advise) then you should take plenty of pressure without warming the cans.
Warming the can also causes the volatile solvents to flash off which can cause a dry out powdery terminate as the lacquer cannot period, and the rapid evaporation of solvent as the lacquer leaves the nozzle causes buildup of lacquer which can result in blockage.
The only fourth dimension when I would recommend warming is if spraying a sunburst, where the extra pressure level does help create a find spray which gives a good feathering to the edge. Here you are generally spraying very close to the work which minimises the issue above.
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Q. Why is delivery so expensive?
A.
Lacquer aerosols are classed every bit hazardous and very few couriers will handle them. Those that do are trained accordingly.
I use a flat delivery toll, dependent on location as this is how I am charged past the courier.
Deliveries to areas outside of Britain mainland are by ocean and consequently have a little longer, typically 2-3 days.
Delivery on every packet costs me more than than I accuse.
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Source: https://manchesterguitartech.co.uk/nitrocellulose-lacquer/lacquer-faqs/
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